New York has seen many restaurants that close for business as soon as it open. If the 12 years behind
Cendrillon is anything to go by, then the husband and wife team of Romy
Dorotan and Amy
Besa has certainly made a strong foothold in downtown Manhattan. This despite the other fact that Filipino food, unlike other p
opular Asian cuisine, has not really found its niche among New Yorkers unless someone is married to a Filipino. With its good location, one is inclined to think that Romy and Amy is wooing the snooty
Manhattanites into eating
Pinoy food.
Interestingly, the couple has authored "Memories of Philippine Kitchens", a coffee-table style cookbook with photos by renowned photographer Neal Oshima. This book is available at Barnes and Noble bookstore and online through Amazon.com.
Cendrillon's interior is long and narrow with exposed bricks on one side and a partially open kitchen running parallel to the wooden booths. There are more tables at the back which has a loft-like feel due to the high ceilings. The
decor is thankfully not an Asian overkill.
The lighting is soft and f
unky but one will hardly miss the gorgeous
Oshima photos hanging on the wall - they're there as if to whet your appetite. I'm famished anyway, having just stood the whole day watching a parade on 5th Avenue.

A quick look at the dinner menu shows a rather limited entree. One realizes here that not everything served in
Cendrillon is
traditionally Pinoy. We settled for the
Chicken Adobo, Kare-kare and
Striped Bass with Hijiki Crust. For starters, we ordered
Ukoy - vegetable and shrimp fritter - and
Lumpia Shanghai. If not for the fresh pineapple sweet and sour sauce that came with the
Lumpia, I wouldn't have been pleasantly jolted. It was a nice counterpoint to something that has been deep-fried.
Adobo is
undoubtedly the Philippine's most popular dish. I've eaten
Chicken Adobo all my life and I was surprised at Romy's own rendition. With a kick that renders the vinegar as sublime,
Chicken Adobo comes with a dramatic entrance to my palate. The chicken is moist, soft and chewy and that unmistakable blast of vinegar proclaims this isn't another chicken food you find elsewhere.

The
Kare-kare is the high point. Romy made sure he only used peanuts ground in his kitchen. The effect is that the peanut sauce took a backstage to the tartness of the shrimp paste that came along with the dish. I truly wonder how Romy's Caucasian customers deal with this blend of flavors.
I was disappointed with the
Striped Bass with Hijiki Crust. Though Japanese i
nspired, I somehow expected it to shine but the fish came soggy, having drowned in its own soupy
aquarium. Not even the contrasting seaweed crust could spring the fish back to life.
We got Halo-halo and Bibingka for dessert. I find nothing memorable with the iced dessert but the Bibingka is divine. Romy's version of Bibingka is not overly sweet and it sweeps your palate subtly like cotton rubbing against a cheek.
Given its pricey location, Cendrillon is surprisingly affordable. Main courses start at $18.50. Atypical of most Asian restaurants, both Romy and Amy will drop by customer's tables for a little chat. Service by the wait staff is quick but not-too-intrusive. Overall, this restaurant is highly recommended.