8/19/12

A Bit of Food Trip in Singapore


It took me a long time to come back. 14 years ago I first visited Singapore. A lot has happened in the city-state since then. Which is not surprising. Pint-sized Singapore is huge when it comes to developing things. There's always something being built. Including expanding the country's diminutive shoreline.

But more than what's visible in the skyline, Singapore is a threat to the waistline. There's food, lots of cheap good food. The Singaporean passion for food is so ingrained that it comes naturally as part of a greeting. Instead of "how are you?", Singaporeans ask "have you eaten yet?". Even immigration counters at Changi Airport have boxes of free candies for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Let the eating begin

As I made it out of Terminal 2 and into the MRT train that will bring me to city center, I was duly impressed. Clearing immigration was no fuss. Baggage appeared promptly. Arrivals area was so calm. Exactly the same observations I had 14 years ago.

If only all "arrivals" everywhere in the world is like this.

Getting into town even at the 5 PM rush hour was bearable. Trains were packed but no one was cursing. At City Hall, I had to transfer to another train, just a short hop to Orchard Station where I was stopping. Literally above on street level is the Singapore Marriott where I was staying free for 2 nights. How convenient for moving around. The 30-storey hotel is shaped like a pagoda thus earning for itself a landmark status.

Singapore Marriott

Knowing how expensive accommodation in Singapore is, I was glad I didn't have to pay for the room (which would have cost a total of USD 900!). After checking-in, I went up to my room on the 21st floor. All the usual amenities in a Premiere Deluxe Guest Room were there but what I do love the most was the featherbed, just as comfortable as the pillowtop beds in Manila Marriott. The view from my perch was pretty much all about other tall buildings in the area.

As a Marriott Rewards Silver Elite, some perks were in order (besides a room upgrade). High-speed Internet was free. On the table was a complimentary bowl of apples. When I return later that evening, there were Venchi chocolates on my bed as part of its turndown service. The next day, shortbreads were delivered to my room as well as  the day's copy of the International Herald.

View from my room - where Orchard and Scotts Road intersect

A cousin who works/lives in Singapore was meeting me. When I told her I wanted to eat food at a hawker stall, she brought me to the Makansutra Gluttons Bay for dinner. While the 'glutton' part of the hawker center's name was mildly shocking, it was great location-wise right on Marina Bay with a view of the towering Marina Bay Sands and its kaleidoscopic light show.

It was a busy evening which is typical of hawker stalls. The food is really cheap, served fast and utterly delicious. Among the many items on display, I ordered Nasi Lemak, a Malay meal consisting of fried chicken, fried anchovies, fried eggs, peanuts, steamed rice and best of all sambal which gave everything on my plate a good kick. By the time I was done eating, I was sweating with glee.

Gluttony is truly at home in Singapore.

Makansutra Gluttons Bay
Nasi Lemak
Chinatown fare
Reminds me of Davao

That first dinner got me going. The next two days would find me visiting two more hawker stalls in Chinatown: People's Park Hawker Centre and Maxwell Road Hawker Centre. It was hot and humid as I went about trying dishes recommended to me.

At People's Park, I had Hookien Char Mee, a Fujian-style fried yellow noodles teeming with fish cake, pork and squid. It was definitely comfort food. The next day, curiosity led me to try Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken over at Maxwell. I made it there well before lunch time so there was no queue. What seem like a simple dish of boiled chicken was pleasantly fragrant and flavourful.

Hookien Char Mee
Tastes just like Puto & Kutsinta
Hainanese Chicken
Pinoys flock to something more familiar

There's so much more to eat in Singapore it warrants another visit. Hopefully not in another 14 years. Eating greatly and cheaply for meals less than $5 is an absolute joy and an absolute bargain. I could only wish I had more than 3 days there. Never mind if my waistline gets an extra 3 inches.

15 comments:

  1. Singapore really knows how to please the palates. Love the food! Those candies at the airport are fox's! I like the fact that it promotes Changi airport and at the same time, provides immediate sustenance for travelers. :)

    My family and I also got a taste of Maxwell and Makansutra food last year. That Hainanese Chicken Rice (a personal favorite!) stall that Tony Bourdain recommends is really a must-try however according to newly-found Singaporean friends few months ago, it's just hyped and there are a lot better food places offering HCR more delicious than we've tasted.

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    1. Haha! Wasn't even paying attention to the brand @ Changi - buti nabanggit mo. Found that gesture really welcoming to visitors, di ba?

      I'm sure there are other hawker stalls specializing in Hainanese chicken rice na mas masarap - yun nga lang kasi, a TV personality's endorsement is too influential lalo na dahil puti.

      I want to go back someday and try more!

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  2. I really should make it a point to head to Asia once again. I find it ironic that I am an Asian, and yet the places I have been to in Asia are all islands, and never the mainland. I keep hearing about these interesting to-die-for street food in southeast Asia, so I think that's reason enough to go!

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    1. Eating street food (& those in hawker stalls) is one of the highlights of anyone's visit in Asia, particularly South East Asia. It's not only very good & very cheap, you get to see how locals really dig into their kind of cuisine.

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  3. I am so glad I stumbled into your website this afternoon. I'll be in Sing for a business trip in a couple of days and reading your blog has caused unnecessary cravings within me =)

    I love their hawker centers but have yet to try Makansutra =) I'll see if I have time to swing by and try it out this week =)

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    1. Thanks for dropping by :)
      It's good to have dinner at Makansutra since you also get to view the nightly light shows at nearby Marina Sands.

      Have a productive trip!

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  4. i love foodtrippin' there!

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  5. so jealous. no better place to foodtrip than singapore. am back from vacay, how have you been?

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    1. Am doing well Maria, thanks! Food really reigns supreme in Singapore. I bet you ate a lot in India! Can't wait for your posts!

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  6. Ahhh.....to eat in Singapore. I'm salivating as I read. I'd love to have those what look like putt and kutsinta right now..

    Hey Dennis, love your new banner photo!

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    1. Thanks - took some effort although this is still a work in progress :)
      The guy selling "kutsinta" did mention that it's pretty much the same as the one in the Philippines!

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  7. Anonymous11:29:00 PM

    Your want the best nasi lemak in Singapore - Adam Road Hawker Centre......fit for loyalty but be prepared to Q for at least 20 minutes...nice

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    Replies
    1. wow, that place sounds really popular with that kind of waiting time. Have to go back to SG again someday :)

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